Duo fast tacker problem

[Don Monfils]

The other day while using one of my Duo fast tackers the trigger fell of the tool. I put the pieces back in the case and used my other gun to finish the job.
Yesterday I put the broken one back together and it still would not work. It almost seems like something is missing. It’s not making contact.
Any ideas guys?

 

[JPfloor]

Switch maybe. Good luck finding parts.

Pretty much everything is unavailable. Maybe ask around if anyone has an old gun that doesn’t work…

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[highup]

Can the switch be pushed without the trigger in place?
I'm trying to remember if there's a small plastic piece in there somewhere that's sort of a lockout.
It keeps the staplers strong jolt from acting like a bump stock on a rifle and turning it into a machine gun/stapler.

 

[highup]

Here ya go.

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

Don,

That schematic is not correct for the current version of the tacker. Several of the trigger assembly parts are not correct on that schematic. Even if you have that version of the tool you'll have to convert parts. I've attached the current schematic.

Most likely you lost either the trigger actuating spring or the trigger actuator button itself when the parts fell out.

So between the plastic orange trigger (GO-215-9) and the actual internal trigger switch (GO-115-B1)inside the tool, there is an outer spring for tension (GO-115-8), a very tiny inner spring (GO-115-6A) sits inside of that spring, and goes up into the tool to act as a cushion between the internal switch and the trigger actuator button (GO-115-10). The trigger actuator button looks like a little miniature mushroom made out of metal. The stem of that "mushroom" goes up inside the outer spring and rests against the tiny inner spring and when the trigger is pulled it pushes up and compresses the inner spring enough to push the internal switch trigger causing the tool to fire.

I'm betting you lost that inner spring (GO-115-6A) when things let go. It's a common problem. The actuator button stem isn't long enough to compress the inner switch trigger without that spring being in place, that's why it isn't firing.

I wish you were closer. I'd could fix it for you in about 2 minutes. But hope this helps. I've fixed a whole lot of these over the years.

FYI, I have parts. We're a distributor for Duofast.

 

[Don Monfils]

OK I see it looks like I did lose that inner spring.
This is what I have

 

[Don Monfils]

How much is that inner spring CFR?
It’s Chuck, correct?

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

Don,

They're less than a $1.00. PM me your mailing address and I'll stick one in the mail for you no charge.

Yep, Chuck.

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

Spring went in the mail today sir!

Just so you know, I can tell by the inner trigger housing that you have the current model of the tool.

When you put that back together, take some good tape - either duct tape or black electrical tape and put a small piece over each of the holes on the housing where the pin sits so that won't slide out on you again. That's one of the dumbest things they did on the newest model. Those pin holes in the housing waddle out and then the pin will keep slipping out on you. They use to use an C-clip to hold that in, then they used rubber O-rings then they just went to where the hole is machined so that it's just held in by friction. Got to make everything cheaper.

Some other tips for you guys on these tackers:

• Never ever use WD-40 anywhere on this tool.
  • There is no need for lubrication on this tool.
  • It's flammable and can start a fire from the electrical current
  • It attracts and holds carpet fiber and dirt and will cause fibers to get caught inside the tool and can cause the main drive spring to break and the staple feed spring to get bound and break.
  • If the tool is binding, 99% of the time it's because the fasteners that hold the nosing to the main housing of the tool are loose and the nose is moving out of position causing the blade to bind when the tool fires. Tighten the bolts and leave the lubricant for your carpet tubes.
  • The other 1% of the time the tool will bind is because there's a small plate that sits between the nosing and the staple feed assembly. This plate will sometimes crack and cause the driver blade to catch and bind. If the bolts are tight then that's the next thing to check.
• Pay attention to your chord and don't:
  • Wrap it around the tool - it breaks the wires inside the chord.
    • Fold it the way it was when you bought the tool new.
  • Cut the neutral on the chord - Buy an adaptor for .25 and don't ruin a $40.00 chord.
    • Without that neutral if the tool takes a jolt it's going to fry the circuit board in the tool ($50.00 to $60.00 repair).
  • Use the tool to jerk the chord out of the outlet.
    • It breaks the wires internally and / or pulls the ends out of the circuit board in the tool causing arcing / shorts or not fire.
• It's a good idea to check the two bolts that hold the nosing to the main housing as well as the one that hold the nosing and the staple assembly together every couple of uses. Keep a torx head /or allen wrench in your box for this.

I've literally fixed hundreds (probably more like thousands) of these tackers over the years and These tips will prevent about 90% of the repairs we see regularly. The parts are getting more expensive and I'd rather see you keep your hard earned money! You guys all work too hard for it. Especially if you're doing carpet. That stuff will beat the snot out of you.

On your hammer staplers, don't use WD-40 either. If you have to use something use something like TFL-50 Dry lubricant. It works good on your carpet tubes too and you don't have to worry about it staining light colored carpets.

 

[MSLI]

CFR YOU are amazing. Hope your recovery is going well. Nice to hear from you.

 

[highup]

Don,

They're less than a $1.00. PM me your mailing address and I'll stick one in the mail for you no charge.

Yep, Chuck.

Got any cords that coil up clockwise? Mine looks like porky pig's tail. I think they spiral the copper wire in the sheaths backwards..... Maybe it's a European thing.
I had one yellow extension cord behave the same way years ago. That looked like a 25 foot long, 12 gauge , 1970's phone cord. Miserable cord.
You'd thunk everyone would have this figured out by now.

 

[Don Monfils]

That’s some good info Chuck , thanks again!

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

I'm doing well, thank you for asking.

 

[Don Monfils]

I put the little spring in the gun today …
And it works like a charm!
Thanks again Chuck for the info and the part!

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

I like your chord modification!!

You're the one and only installer I've ever seen who swapped his chord and was smart enough to keep the chord minder (that rubber sleeve that comes out of the back of the tool)!

It not only helps keep the chord out of the way, but it helps protect the chord getting pulled out of the circuit board in the tool! Good job! I like it! I've probably replaced a few hundred of those over the years because guys just threw them away.

Glad I could help!

 

[Floorist]

Is there any difference between a Crain and a Duofast? Just curious, they look exactly alike except for color.

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

Yes, absolutely a big difference. I handle both vendors. The Crain is a two-piece clam shell including the main drive housing. Both pieces are plastic. In my experience of repairing both tackers they aren't close in quality or longevity, the Duofast wins hands down. I love Crain for other things but that tool isn't a "go to" tool for me. If a guy did mainly hard surface and just used it once or twice a year, eh, might be ok. Otherwise, stay with the Duofast.

I also handle Roberts / Q.E.P. , and Traxx who also have electric tackers.

Stay with the Duofast...at least for now.

Vendors are always making changes. Somebody may come up with one that's close at some point. The problem is the patents and proprietary parts of the tool make it difficult to knock off without compromising quality and performance.

 

[Floorist]

Yes, absolutely a big difference. I handle both vendors. The Crain is a two-piece clam shell including the main drive housing. Both pieces are plastic. In my experience of repairing both tackers they aren't close in quality or longevity, the Duofast wins hands down. I love Crain for other things but that tool isn't a "go to" tool for me. If a guy did mainly hard surface and just used it once or twice a year, eh, might be ok. Otherwise, stay with the Duofast.

I also handle Roberts / Q.E.P. , and Traxx who also have electric tackers.

Stay with the Duofast...at least for now.

Vendors are always making changes. Somebody may come up with one that's close at some point. The problem is the patents and proprietary parts of the tool make it difficult to knock off without compromising quality and performance.

I have 2 Duofast. I have a new Crain that I bought for almost nothing that has never been used.

 

[Commercial Floor Rep]

They make a good backup.

 

[highup]

Yes, absolutely a big difference. I handle both vendors. The Crain is a two-piece clam shell including the main drive housing. Both pieces are plastic. In my experience of repairing both tackers they aren't close in quality or longevity, the Duofast wins hands down. I love Crain for other things but that tool isn't a "go to" tool for me. If a guy did mainly hard surface and just used it once or twice a year, eh, might be ok. Otherwise, stay with the Duofast.

I also handle Roberts / Q.E.P. , and Traxx who also have electric tackers.

Stay with the Duofast...at least for now.

Vendors are always making changes. Somebody may come up with one that's close at some point. The problem is the patents and proprietary parts of the tool make it difficult to knock off without compromising quality and performance.

Totally unrelated to the tackers, but related sort of to vendors.
I bought a pair of jack stands from O'Reilly's. The stands were fine and welds looked good. The ratcheting support pieces were crap. These are 4 ton jacks (4000lbs) per unit.
Same company, same jack stands.
We have two O'Rileys stores in town. I wasn't happy with the looks of the ones I bought, so I bought another set from the other store.
Notice any differences? Doesn't even look like they were made in the same country.
Whoever bids lowest gets the work.
No big deal, I'm just under my truck, trusting my life to China.