Help With Laying Linoleum Floor Cheaply and Effectively

[krstwll]

First of all, if there is a better category to post something about linoleum, please let me know

So I salvaged a beautiful roll of real linoleum with burlap backing from the trash and now I want to use it to cover a 250 sq. ft. area in the boutique I'm setting up. As I inquire about laying the linoleum floor, I find that it's an expensive process, with special glue required and some kind of rod that seals the seams. So here's the deal: I can't afford the rods, not to mention they don't make the ones for this floor anymore. I was thinking of gluing it, letting the glue dry, then stapling. I'm going for high-end here so the staples seem tacky.

Well anyways, let me know if you have any suggestions on how to lay this floor and to seal the seams!

 

[Incognito]

First of all, if there is a better category to post something about linoleum, please let me know

So I salvaged a beautiful roll of real linoleum with burlap backing from the trash and now I want to use it to cover a 250 sq. ft. area in the boutique I'm setting up. As I inquire about laying the linoleum floor, I find that it's an expensive process, with special glue required and some kind of rod that seals the seams. So here's the deal: I can't afford the rods, not to mention they don't make the ones for this floor anymore. I was thinking of gluing it, letting the glue dry, then stapling. I'm going for high-end here so the staples seem tacky.

Well anyways, let me know if you have any suggestions on how to lay this floor and to seal the seams!

*************************************
REAL linoleum does not need the "rod" to weld the seams if the installer is expert enough to know how to lay REAL linoleum.

This product has been around well over 100 years and is an excellent choice for a "high-end" application but NOT for an amateur installer/butcher/scab/hack.

In fact the COMMON builder grade or apartment grade vinyl is to some degree a DIY project. So all the MONKEYS who've been slamming that CRAP in for peanuts their whole life do not even have a CLUE how to install HARD GOODS like genuine lino. Here's what I'm saying OVER 90% of the GARBAGE installers out there have neither the tools nor the technology to do this work you want.

So either find and PAY that elite guy who is a GENUINE flooring pro or go ahead and return that roll from whence it came.

 

[rugaddict]

the word linoleum was derived from its component parts--lin seed oil---its all the rage now because its considered greener than kermit the frog---that being said it has strict guidelines---i dont believe a normal adhesive adheres to it--there is no chemical sealer--its either heat weld or nothing---pattern scribing is the normal technique for installation---my question is if you got the material for free why go cheap on installation?

 

[krstwll]

Thanks for your replies so far.

Well the reason I have to go cheap on the installation is that I'm very young and I'm fixing up this old building on a laughable budget. My business partner died three months ago and I've been struggling to complete this project on my own.

So I can probably afford the proper glue but the rods are just out of the question. I'm hoping that this floor will last me 5 years, so we don't have to think in terms of forever. I don't know... It looks like I'm probably just going to glue it and staple it, and be conscious from there on out of making sure water doesn't get into the seams.

Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions. I need a miracle!

 

[DarisMulkin]

A 100 years ago before welding rods cam out, and while Christ was still in Chicago we used to rub caulk into seams. We also used to see a lot of varnished lino. It would yellow it but...

Daris

 

[Incognito]

Thanks for your replies so far.

Well the reason I have to go cheap on the installation is that I'm very young and I'm fixing up this old building on a laughable budget. My business partner died three months ago and I've been struggling to complete this project on my own.

So I can probably afford the proper glue but the rods are just out of the question. I'm hoping that this floor will last me 5 years, so we don't have to think in terms of forever. I don't know... It looks like I'm probably just going to glue it and staple it, and be conscious from there on out of making sure water doesn't get into the seams.

Let me know if you guys have any other suggestions. I need a miracle!

****************************
The glue is NOT any special, expensive product. The "premium" multi-purpose flooring adhesive you can buy at Ace Hardware or most home centers will work great. For 250 square feet you need 2 gallons and a trowel with 1/16"x1/16"x1/16" SQUARE notching.

This link is an EXAMPLE of a better brand:http://www.wwhenry.com/content.aspx?id=130&View=Product&cID=77&pID=130&ProductID=90

You just need PREMIUM grade multi-purpose troweled out like I tell you and it will be there as long as you live or get sick of the color. It WONT fly up off the floor and run away on you.

Weld "rod" and heat welding is a COMMERCIAL process that's not remotely REQUIRED and even foolish in my opinion for residential applications. We do it because it's faster and that's it. Nothing better about it for your use. In fact I'd never weld lino if they paid me to install it tight. It's not all THAT hard with 30 years experience. Seams in smaller areas like yours MIGHT be able to be straight edges and butt. There's only one alternative and that's an underscribed seam. Never heard of that tool? Good lucK!


Staples? How about drywall screws?

Forget about it. It won't do anything but put dimples in the goods. This stuff will expand in the width and shrink in the length. Staples will hold for maybe 2-3 degree temperature change and probably less humidity differences God forbid you should ever open a window.

Your personal problems don't change the dynamics/physics/chemistry/skills involved in fitting and bonding this material to the substrate. I don't want to sound harsh but the Dodgers lost last night to the Giants. So how does that affect your flooring project?

Here's a little linoleum job I did last year. Yeah, we welded it because it's FASTER, not better.

 

[Floorist]

If you straight edge lino seams, they will buckle. They can be sealed without rods but MUST be underscribed.

 

[Incognito]

If you straight edge lino seams, they will buckle. They can be sealed without rods but MUST be underscribed.

Yeah, Rusty that's correct. I straight edge VERY small seams only but do not butt them up tight. You need to leave a slight gap about the width of a utility blade (heavy duty) and in a few days the seam will close up perfectly. Using underscrbers they would be set to allow for the same size gap to compensate for expansion in the width of the goods.

Thanks for the correction.

 

[Ernesto]

Looks like we're not talking hospital grade installation here. If your talking real lino and you have zero experience with laying vinyl or lino then you better cross your fingers ands say a prayer.

I would go get some scribing felt, lay out the area tight with the felt, then place over top of the roll and trace cut.. if needed butt the factory seams ( leaving a small gap like previously mentioned) or you could screw them up worse. lol

Beware of the stove bar.

 

[FloorMaven]

I was thinking of gluing it, letting the glue dry, then stapling. I'm going for high-end here so the staples seem tacky.

What would you staple? Try not to over-think this. It's just 250 sf of free floor.

Here's what Forbo recommends-
http://www.forboflooringna.com/getfile/forbo_installation.pdf?id=514&t=dl&ot=qckdl&chc=...

The closer an installer can adhere to their recommendations the longer the floor will last, but, considering the circumstances...I agree that a multi-purpose will work fine and don't concern yourself with welding.

They make lino tiles now, they are thinner than standard sheet lino for stability purposes and usually the best seam is no seam. Otherwise, if you have one or two long lines in a room that stick out like a sore thumb then you'll be disappointed. So the answer is make a lot of seams that consistently look alike. Like it was designed to be that way. If you want to do something creative then cut the sheet material into tile size pieces, change direction and stagger the seams.

Acclimate the material really well and make some whiffle dust by scraping or grinding the lino face into dust particles and mix with some elmer's glue to make a matching filler. Clean off the excess well.

 

[FloorMaven]

Scribing to big angular shapes is easy...cutting all those little shits-in is a PIA. Though it doesn't require alot of talent, just an abundance of patience.

 

[Ernesto]

What would you staple? Try not to over-think this. It's just 250 sf of free floor.

Here's what Forbo recommends-
http://www.forboflooringna.com/getfile/forbo_installation.pdf?id=514&t=dl&ot=qckdl&chc=...

The closer an installer can adhere to their recommendations the longer the floor will last, but, considering the circumstances...I agree that a multi-purpose will work fine and don't concern yourself with welding.

They make lino tiles now, they are thinner than standard sheet lino for stability purposes and usually the best seam is no seam. Otherwise, if you have one or two long lines in a room that stick out like a sore thumb then you'll be disappointed. So the answer is make a lot of seams that consistently look alike. Like it was designed to be that way. If you want to do something creative then cut the sheet material into tile size pieces, change direction and stagger the seams.

Acclimate the material really well and make some whiffle dust by scraping or grinding the lino face into dust particles and mix with some elmer's glue to make a matching filler. Clean off the excess well.

I was gonna post that forbo last night but thought, why? lol

Looks great there Maven, can I be your helper some day?

 

[FloorMaven]

I was gonna post that forbo last night but thought, why? lol

Looks great there Maven, can I be your helper some day?

If I can be your's.