Install tips needed

[zubby01]

OK, I pulled the trigger and ordered some wood.

I believe I can float the floor but I want to glue it down (it is an option also) - I have a concrete slab. I figured the underlayment would almost equal the cost of glue and I don;t like the floating floor sound.

I am really worried on how to level the floor. I've seen Youtube videos but to me, it looks like you have to really know what you're doing. Is it hard to float the floor? What should I use to do so? I'm also afraid the float will run all up on to the base boards or under the walls. Also, I'm doing the study and it has a piano in there. No way am I moving it out of there. I know I can install wood in there and just move the piano a little at a time but how can I level the floor with that thing in there?

For glue, what should I use? I have a Home Depot and Lowe's close by. What do I use to get the glue out of the bucket to put on the floor?

Is a 1/4" gap between the baseboards and wood correct?

What tools will I need (pullbar, etc.)? I have a rubber mallet - is it necessary to use it or only whan a piece is a bit tough to fit in?

What is the proper method for blue taping during install?

I had wood installed in my old house and they rubbed it with something after it was all down - looked like paint thinner or something - what is that? Is it necessary?

 

[havasu]

If you are sloppy with gluing down, many installers will wipe the floor with a turpentine, acetone, paint thinner or other liquid chemical to eliminate any excess glue. The floor material will dictate exactly what chemical to use, and which chemical to stay away from, depending on the finish.

I've done a few glue down floors, and you should do a moisture check on the concrete before committing to it. Again, the flooring box should provide you specific directions how to perform this check.

I myself (especially considering the piano) would really think this over again. The floating floor could be installed in less than one day, and is much more forgiving, easier, cheaper, etc.

 

[zubby01]

I think you may be right.

1. Do my level tolerances for a floating floor have to be less than a glue down?

2. I just got through looking at glue and it is really expensive.

3. If I float, what should I put down as an underlayment?

Thank you

 

[highup]

I think you may be right.

1. Do my level tolerances for a floating floor have to be less than a glue down?

2. I just got through looking at glue and it is really expensive.

3. If I float, what should I put down as an underlayment?

Thank you

I have a preference for Webcrete 95, but there are others that will work well.. Don't use the white patch material such as Vitex or Fixall. Use cement based only.

Do you have any ideas on how deep the fills will be? 1/8", 1/4", or deeper?
Spend a LOT of time marking out or mapping the floor to discover the high spots, low spots and decide on a starting point.
You will not get the floor flat on the fist attempt.

 

[havasu]

I had one floor with a 1/2" drop and was successful with pouring one batch of self leveling compound, but it needs precise measuring, timing, etc.

To the OP, many high quality floating floors have a built in underlayment, so it really makes it a quick install.

I should mention that with the "glue down" and the piano in the mix, we are talking complete cure time before the piano could be moved onto the new flooring, so this could be a project from hell. Even with the floating floor, removing the piano into another room would expedite the process greatly.

 

[highup]

I think we need some additional info. You said you ordered "some wood".
What did you order? Brand and style.

You also said, "Also, I'm doing the study and it has a piano in there."

.......are you doing only the study? ...or are there other rooms? ...a hallway?

If it's just a single room, is it a simple square or rectangle? What are the dimensions?

 

[Ernesto]

You might want to use an exterior grade SLC if you install it under the moisture retarder/adhesive. Otherwise you need to put it on top of the moisture retarder unless your using a 2 & 1 adhesive/moisture retarder.

 

[TNT]

If you glue, you should use the glue recommended for the particular wood. What is the plank width? What is the weight of the piano? I've seen floated hardwood have problems if pinched too much by baseboards or base cupboards or very heavy items that don't allow enough movement. This will cause buckling.

If you float on concrete, I'd suggest Aquabar, the Ligget & Platt moisture barrier pad, or a similar type underlayment.

Level tolerance should be straight smooth to float, especially with a narrower board. To glue, it again depends on the board, but you may have a little bit more leniency, as the boards will adjust to a point and you can utilize more or less glue where needed. Webcrete 95 or 98 are great levelers.

Tia

 

[zubby01]

OK, after further review, the wood I ordered is 3/8 x 5" engineered. It is a click together floor so looks like I won't have to use glue.

Do most click together come with built in underlayment? If not, what should I get.

I have a baby grand piano in the study.

I'll be ripping out the existing floating wood and some tile.

Where should I start the floor? I will be laying vertical on the pictures and none of the vertical walls are exterior.

See attachments.

 

[TNT]

Does your click-together hardwood come with attached pad? I think not, but you need to be asking your salesperson! Seriously, you're asking us? You should know this already!

Tia

 

[WoodFloorist]

I would start on the dining room wall on the far left of the picture. You are going to have one place where you are going to have to click it backwards by the kitchen. You will be able to move the piano to the far right and carefully move it onto the floor and continue installing.

 

[zubby01]

I would start on the dining room wall on the far left of the picture. You are going to have one place where you are going to have to click it backwards by the kitchen. You will be able to move the piano to the far right and carefully move it onto the floor and continue installing.

Can you explain what you mean by click it backwards and where?

 

[WoodFloorist]

Can you explain what you mean by click it backwards and where?

Sure. In the picture below you will see the place where you will need to either click backwards or figure out what the rip is going to be along the kitchen wall and bring both sides of this small wall out together to the point where it says "when you get here"and hope they meet.

 

[Ernesto]

You can start on the longest wall to the right and not click backwards at all.

 

[Polestretch]

I do quite a bit of laminate, and do not find it hard to click backwards at all. Now with that being said, I almost always installing Pergo.

 

[WoodFloorist]

You can start on the longest wall to the right and not click backwards at all.

If my picture was of the complete job I would agree with you but it is only part of the area to be installed. Look at post #9 of this thread to see the whole job. I see no longest wall on the right.

I agree with Polestretch that clicking backwards isn't hard but is a consideration to answer zubby's question.

 

[Ernesto]

If my picture was of the complete job I would agree with you but it is only part of the area to be installed. Look at post #9 of this thread to see the whole job. I see no longest wall on the right.

.

Oh I see, your post cut off the room. I like to start off outside walls which are generally the straightest but you need to check it against all walls and especially hallways. Hallways usually dictate since it can be so obvious if your running crooked.

 

[zubby01]

Thank you all for your help.

How do I glue down a transition? What glue do I use? Do I glue it to the wood at all or just the concrete and let the floor ride up underneath it? I'll be going from wood to tile and wood to carpet.

The type of flooring I bought is a click together. When I install the underlayment first, do I ride it up the wall (baseboards) a little bit or just cut it to touch the bottom of the baseboards?

When I install the quarter rounds, how 'flush' do I make them against the top of the floor? Do they server any purpose in 'holding the floor down'? In other words, do I kind of press down on the floor when installing them or just make sure they are laying on top of the floor?

Part of my install includes a half moon fireplace. The wood will be going underneath the stone on the fireplace. There won't be a quarter round or trim to kind of hold the floor in place under the fireplace - any consideration there?

Is it worth purchasing an electric jamb saw? What's an inexpensive one that should work?

 

[flooringforum12]

I can relate. I am a little bit new in the industry and that is why a forum like this is very helpful... thanks to TNT and everyone else who has been generous with information.

 

[TNT]

Thank you all for your help.

How do I glue down a transition? What glue do I use? Do I glue it to the wood at all or just the concrete and let the floor ride up underneath it? I'll be going from wood to tile and wood to carpet.

The type of flooring I bought is a click together. When I install the underlayment first, do I ride it up the wall (baseboards) a little bit or just cut it to touch the bottom of the baseboards?

When I install the quarter rounds, how 'flush' do I make them against the top of the floor? Do they server any purpose in 'holding the floor down'? In other words, do I kind of press down on the floor when installing them or just make sure they are laying on top of the floor?

Part of my install includes a half moon fireplace. The wood will be going underneath the stone on the fireplace. There won't be a quarter round or trim to kind of hold the floor in place under the fireplace - any consideration there?

Is it worth purchasing an electric jamb saw? What's an inexpensive one that should work?

To put down a transition on concrete, consider Johnsonite's Power Tape, it's some good stuff. No, don't ride the underlayment up, keep it a bit back from the edge. You should brad-nail the quarter round into the baseboard, not the floor. The purpose of it is not to "hold the floor down", but to cover the gap for expansion and contraction. It can be close to the flooring, but not super tight. In your situation of a stone fireplace, an electric jamb saw is probably the only option. The ones that looks like a hand saw would not work on stone.

Hope this helps!
Tia