Is there a very liquid adhesive that I can pump under two boards to glue them back to the floor?

[Ivan Turbinca]

I have an narrow area between the kitchen entrance and the stairs that is 39" wide with engineered hardwood installed an year ago
The boards are installed transversal to the area
There was a temporary board (yellow in the picture) nailed toward the stairs side that I had to remove to finish the stairs and to replace it with a matching nose
This temporary board was nailed so I had to pry it out but I did not realize that it had a tongue that it was connecting it to the permanent boards above mentioned
So while I removed that temporary board I accidentally unglued two of these boards (green in the picture)
Their end toward the stairs is more lose and I could inject glue from there and put some weights on the floor till the adhesive cures
Their end near the transition piece that connects the floor to the kitchen tiles is not flush with the floor anymore and I need the glue that I am injecting to reach all the way to that point, under the floor
The end of the green boards near the blue piece is probably 1/32" above the blue piece only in the spot marked with a purple arrow
What adhesive and what tools should I use for this. The plan is to pump it from the stairs end. Only those two boards are in one pieces 39" long and they are the only ones that traverse the entire area, the others are shorter as depicted

 

[kwfloors]

Shaw makes wood floor adhesive we use to glue them together. Looks like regular wood glue. I think you could water it down and flood it in there and it might work good enough. Or what about just using a good glue like PL adhesive and glue the whole board down by using a stick to push some under there and weight it down overnight.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

I think the stick might be a good idea but I will have to hope that at the blue end I can push PL in a very thin layer under the boards which might not be possible hence my hope to find something really liquid

 

[kwfloors]

Is it possible to tent those board up?

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

Probably but that might fracture the joint that is there

 

[kwfloors]

Maybe if you lift it 1/8" you can put wood glue and use an air spray can duster to blow the glue in there.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

I am considering a syringe like this one

Amazon.com

I am not sure what glue to use for this

 

[kwfloors]

Just regular wood glue should

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

I hope is liquid enough so I can pump it in
It seems so when it is in its original container

 

[C.J.]

I wonder if it wouldn’t be better to remove those 2 boards, clean up the substrate and glue down a couple new boards.

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

Not skilled enough to remove them...
I think the best way to remove them is to pull them out from the yellow end as that yellow board is not there anymore
The problem is that I don't that they will go back in and look as smooth and clean as they are now.....

 

[havasu]

Bruce hardwood use to sell a repair kit, which contained a 1/16" drill bit, a 1/16th needle applicator, and a 2 part epoxy. You would drill through the planks between the seams, inject the epoxy, weight down the glued plank, then cover the small hole with a colored crayon. That worked great for many flooring applications, but doing a quick Google search, I was unable to find it anywhere.

 

[kwfloors]

Another way is just to nail it down and fill the nail holes.

 

[Csason]

I have an narrow area between the kitchen entrance and the stairs that is 39" wide with engineered hardwood installed an year ago
The boards are installed transversal to the area
There was a temporary board (yellow in the picture) nailed toward the stairs side that I had to remove to finish the stairs and to replace it with a matching nose
This temporary board was nailed so I had to pry it out but I did not realize that it had a tongue that it was connecting it to the permanent boards above mentioned
So while I removed that temporary board I accidentally unglued two of these boards (green in the picture)
Their end toward the stairs is more lose and I could inject glue from there and put some weights on the floor till the adhesive cures
Their end near the transition piece that connects the floor to the kitchen tiles is not flush with the floor anymore and I need the glue that I am injecting to reach all the way to that point, under the floor
The end of the green boards near the blue piece is probably 1/32" above the blue piece only in the spot marked with a purple arrow
What adhesive and what tools should I use for this. The plan is to pump it from the stairs end. Only those two boards are in one pieces 39" long and they are the only ones that traverse the entire area, the others are shorter as depicted

They make a kit. I’ll take a photo of it later . I just finished three days of hell day care center 7000 feet of LVT. Your repair is in a perfect spot

 

[Csason]

Bruce hardwood use to sell a repair kit, which contained a 1/16" drill bit, a 1/16th needle applicator, and a 2 part epoxy. You would drill through the planks between the seams, inject the epoxy, weight down the glued plank, then cover the small hole with a colored crayon. That worked great for many flooring applications, but doing a quick Google search, I was unable to find it anywhere.

 

[Csason]

This kit has everything you need it’s expensive

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

Whoa ....for that money I can buy an entire box of hardwood and fix the area )
I already ordered and received a pair of 150ml syringes and I have needles already
I am lucky that my floor has variations and those are black spots of various sizes (knots) some are really small some are bigger so a spot created to inject adhesive won't be very visible. I just need to find the right adhesive (right now I am inclined to use carpenter glue which seems pretty liquid)
The Le Page contact cement also seemed pretty liquid, not sure how good it is for this purpose
The contractor seems to have used some form of carpenter glue, judged by a board that I salvaged (he was throwing away a long piece where the nail hit a knot in the plywood and turned back to surface though the board. That one was an edge or something and he secured that with adhesive as well. This adhesive was pretty easy to remove with a chisel, I am not sure what it was but it was a little bit gummy (solid but not hard)

 

[Csason]

Use any of the polyurethane adhesives they will be harder to push but they stick well and fill spaces - when poly dries it forms a solid - whereas soft glued won’t be much in the the way of support

 

[Csason]

Before you say no to Dritac -
It’s 70 bucks because you get everything you need, drill bit , adhesive and plunger , exact fit dowels and instructions . It is very liquid like water but it fills gaps and dries solid like concrete . It’s super super good . I have used just a portion on a leveling issue was one of the best fixes I’ve ever used

 

[Ivan Turbinca]

I just need contact, everything is level -these boards moved because I pried them out unwillingly when I removed the temp yellow board you see in the picture