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I lost the slide of this image , but fortunately I have a large negative from the place that made my prints years ago. I scanned the slide then converted it to B&W because it's hard to correct the color version. This was on Kodachrome 64 slide film.
This was shot from a coastal bluff just before sunset. Nice smooth waves were rolling in this evening. It was nearing sunset and I was toying with long exposures in an attempt to figure out how to do these long exposures in a more routine and predictable way. (there isn't) :DKodachrome was hard to shoot in this way. I probably started the exposure one or two minutes after the sun went down.
The sun is setting as the exposure is happening. The correct exposure when the shot started was one minute, but when the exposure ended, 4 minutes later the exposure might have been 16 to 30 minutes......... so what you do ........is guess. With the first exposure completed, the second might be 1, 2 or even 4 hours long....... so you get one shot.
I discovered with experimentation that 2 to 4 minutes let the ocean go smooth and still let the colors of the sunset reflect on the sandstone and basalt. More than that it all went an ugly grey.

This exposure was between 2 and 4 minutes long and that's why the ocean looks like fog instead of waves. Long exposures of moving things like waves or cars makes them blur.
 

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Here's the scanned color version. Fresh off the scanner, no corrections. Not bad. The colors are relatively close to what they should be like.
 

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It's been one of my favorites Rusty. In the color version, I can't get the dark col0r from the water. Had a purplish gray color I don't like. I can lighten it, remove colors from the water area alone, but it always gets worse not better. The B&W version fixes all the problems.
I used a light meter to set my guestimated exposure, then checked the light meter minute after minute during the exposure to see how light diminished during the exposure. I figured with the accumulated knowledge after the fact, it would lead me to a predictable result. Nope, it was always a crap shoot. 95% failure rate. Negative film instead of Chrome film would have raised the success rate to 95% success rate. Negative film was very forgiving. Kinda like shooting a shot gun instead of a rifle.
 
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Fire in the sky. I wish we had sunsets like that. We do, but not often enough and not worth watching without taking a drive to the beach with crossed fingers.
 
That's funny. I probably could take a similar image from our Walmart if conditions were the same.
......tho you'd see Burger King's roof and a few light poles. wall mart is probably 2 miles from the coast.
 
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Thanks, Nick. That seems to be aimed at video and has a workaround for still images. I need to control the water color separately. I can do that with Photoshop using the hue/saturation tool. Problem is, no matter what hue I control, the water color just doesn't look right. If I had the original slide, I'd know.
Colors can go a bit goofy with long exposures, so maybe I can't get what I'd prefer to have. As the sun sets further, the sky color diminishes, so what I was seeing when the exposure started isn't as brilliant as it is 4 minutes later. The whiter areas is where the water had foam from splashing on the rocks and the darker portions are just water. The darker areas just don't lighten up as much as I'd like. Maybe a re-scan of the negative would gain something. The scanner has controls too....... nothing like Photoshop, but there are color, brightness and levels controls that can be set before scanning.
The B&W image fixes everything. :D
 
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Apple makes the best photo software for their confusers .. The good calbration software cost's between 7 and $10,000 ..
 

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