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Ken, it is distressed so not that thin a veneer, but it has a HDF core. That type construction kinda scares me, especially with a wild wood on top like Hickory.
But I remember the first one I did about ten years ago, was a 3/4 inch with Oak on top made by Shaw as well. So I guess they have been making it with an HDF core for quite awhile now.

The slideshow makes the pics look fuzzy for some reason. Just click on my flickr accout link below.
 
Instead of the tack I use the floor boards in a T configuration along with end clamps to brace against the wall. Wonderful ingenuity though.
 
Instead of the tack I use the floor boards in a T configuration along with end clamps to brace against the wall. Wonderful ingenuity though.

I forgot who taught me that tackstrip trick. Some guy in Phoenix. I don;t waste floor boards when I have sticks around with nails in it already.


I did, but didn't want to get your feathers ruffled. So much for that moisture barrier...hehe


He carry tapes, various kinds of tape from packing tape to water proof duct tape.
 
Ernesto said:
I don;t waste floor boards when I have sticks around with nails in it already.

I understand. I tend to have a better than average ability to utilize and integrate cut boards. I agree that the underlayment is easily repaired but I have concerns about the stray piece of spalled concrete making a racket.
 
I understand. I tend to have a better than average ability to utilize and integrate cut boards. I agree that the underlayment is easily repaired but I have concerns about the stray piece of spalled concrete making a racket.



I also understand and agree. However, I did utilize full uncut planks but did not damage them in the process. And he feels around with his fingers for spalled bits of concrete. Plus, those nails are not driven down but maybe half the way. The milling was superb so I only needed something to push against, not banging a nailer against it.

I might try that T configuration next time. Got some example/pics of that for us?
 
Nice pic Ken. I only have about fifteen or so straps. Do you find that some straps lift the wood? I am pretty careful wo not squeeze to tight on gluedowns for that reason.
 
I've flipped an entire row on more than one occasion. Usually when the milling is tight.
 
Usually I will strap to long boards crossing the seams before racking out another 2 or 3 feet, and lay full boxes of wood on top to hold the floor down. Rolling before and after of course. Is that a hundred pounder sitting in the corner?

I find many people, pros and consumers alike, just do not appreciate the skill and time it takes to lay a prefinished gluedown on concrete properly.
 
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